In this excerpt from the work "The Two JRB's Tour Guide of Val Verde and Coahuila",
our tourguides Dr. John Romulus Brinkley and Judge Roy Bean talk about
CUATRO CIENEGAS, Coahuila
(To see underwater. Click here.)
View from the Gazebo in the Zocalo (Plaza)
Doctor Brinkley says to Judge Roy
Bean, who silently picks off the label of his longneck. "Picture this,
Judge. A small village surrounded by magnificent desert mountains surrounding
an ancient flat valley, certainly millions of years with almost the same climate!
Incredible! It's teh very belly-button of teh State of Coahuila, and recently
declared a PROTECTED ZONE of flora and fauna"
"You really believe that,
Doc?"
"They got a private/ public
partnership of the Government of Mexico's Departments of the Environment
along with The Nature Conservancy, a privately funded ecological
organization that purchases lands to hold in perpituity to preserve nature
and biodiversity. Featured on the Discovery Channel, the Learning
Channel, The British Broadcasting Service, National (USA) Public Radio,
and in a wonderful article in National Geographic titled "Aquarium
in the Desert" (Oct. 1995)."
"So why should I care?"
"Man, you don't know nothin'sometimes,
Jyour Judgeship. With so many unique endemic species, it’s the North American
"Galapagos" with beautiful ragged mountains full of exotic cactus
and Candelilla, Coyotes they call Coyo-lobos because they're the size of wolves,
and several species of fish and mollusks tha texist no where else on earth.
Scientists from the University of Texas and other places have discovered that
these fishes' nearest relatives seem to be in Africa, proof of when all continents
once merged into the supercontinent Pangeae, or proof of the modern Mexican
believer in Esoteric Sciences that all of Mexico is connected through a webwork
of underground rivers to various Power Centers and both teh Atlantic and Pacific.
In any case, Cuatro Cienegas now (since 1998) has a visitor center
and a staff of professionals to ensure an enlightening and enjoyable visit."
"Well let me jes' polish
my gun 'n' get going."
"Judge, you aren't listening
again. The area is extremely sensitive, experienced Eco-tourists would begin
to wonder how to ask for local guides and get permission from the Government
agencies to explore the outback."
"So what's an inexperienced
Echo-Traveler sposed ta do?"
"Read up on it, bubba. Get
interested."
"If I cain't eat it, what's
so interesting?"
"The very first thing you
and others should do, memorize and live by the motto "Take nothing
but photos, leave nothing but footprints". Respect the Earth
in all it’s diversity, and help ensure it’s survival!"
Las Playitas, where the people gather in summer.
“It’s rumored that the Honorable Hangin’ Judge Roy Bean once took a bath
in Las Playitas. It’s the largest Poza, that’s what they call these desert
springs. Three other Pozas nearby, but I don’t believe it because the water’s
so clean.”
“Doc Brinkley, you have got to come back here in the summer, when people
from the village pull the cars and barbecue cookers up to the lake edge, feed
the whole family camped out on the sand, splash around all weekend long and
get a good sunburn.”
“Where do you get sunburned, Judge? The knuckles of your pistol-grippers?”
“I brings my own shade.”
“How’s that, Judge?”
“I got me a big piece of cloth from the Star Store in downtown South
Del Rio, and string it up with a couple of rocks to make a tent-like contraption.”
“What do you tie it up to? There isn’t a tree for miles.”
“My saddle. You jus’ don’t appreciate the advantages of a horse. You
got these stinky little insect cars today, wouldn’t shade a small hound.”
“I’d be careful about letting your horse drink too much of this water.
High mineral content. Look, there’s almost no weeds, or fish.
Estatua de Venustiano Carranza
“Greeting visitors the
north at the limits of the City of Cuatro Cienegas, this statue (color reversed)
commemorates Cuatro Cienegas as the hometown and Birthplace of Venustiano Carranza,
one of the more civilized heroes of the Mexican Revolution, and a very good
President. The statue sits on a small foothill in front of the Dead Man’s Mountain
Range (Sierra del Muerto), which resembles the profile of a man laying face
up. Resembles your Judgeship about three in the afternoon.”
“Only on a good afternoon,
Doc.”
“What makes a good afternoon?”
“A twelve pack or two
fifths.”
“You’re a mathematical
genious, Judge.”
“Cierra del Muerto. The man’s face changes
throughout the day as the sun moves. Unlike the Judge’s.”
El
Zocalo (Main Plaza) and Iglesia de San Jose built of Travertine
Saturday
Night, outdoor dance in open square
between the Church and
the Municipal Palace featuring
the music of DJ “PAURAKIS”, the
only DJ that the community will listen to!
Early Morning in the Zocalo
Museums:
Carranza's House, Carranza and
Juarez
Tue-Sun 10-2pm, 4-7pm.
Casa de la Cultura, Hidalgo and
Corona, Phone: (869) 6-08-96
Mon-Fri 9-1pm, 3-7pm Sat 9-5pm
Hotels:
Hotel Santa Fe, Juarez Ote. Phone:
(869) 6-04-25
Hotel Ibarra, Zaragoza No. 200
Phone: (869) 6-00-04
Finca Campestre, Carretera a Ocampo,
KM 1.5, Phone: (869) 6-04-43
Los Nogalitos
Region hundida = The Sunken Region.
Different levels and kinds of exotic bacteria determine each
pool’s color
A very warm Poza, like
a small coffee cup in the desert.
A large fenced and restricted
Poza on the edge of the Protected Zone.
Another warm Poza, just beg enough to bath a cow, yet deep
and clear.
Double-pool Poza of crystaline
waters in the Sunken Region.
Blooming Water Lilies over azure waters
The author (after swimming all day)
at Poza Becerra, Febuary 2002
(To see underwater. Click here.)
All content and images Copyright © 2002
Mark Plimsoll. All rights reserved.